We took “chicken buses” from Xela to get to the remote indigenous town of Nebaj, our starting point for the trek. The infamous chicken buses often pack as many as 80 people onto old, garishly repainted American schoolbuses.
The Saints and the Dead
On our way out of the central church in Nebaj, a Mayan town cupped in the foothills of the Cuchumatane Mountains, Lacey and I stopped at a simple altar. Behind a metal grate were hundreds of crosses, each crudely inscribed